Kai Lenny drops into yet another giant wave. He skips off the 45-foot lip, lands 10 feet below and starts racing to the bottom, hoping to make it before the water crashes over him. Like the 10 times prior to that launch, Kai makes it.
It’s no different than the hundreds of others I’ve already witnessed this winter. This time it’s with a paddle, other times it’s without, sometimes it’s as a windsurfer. But whatever the means, he does it with the utmost confidence. And how can he not, when his first session out at the infamous Jaws surfbreak was with legendary big-wave chargers Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama?
How can he not, when his safety team consists of the likes of Victor Lopez, brother of Hawaiian surfing royalty, and Milton Martinson watching over every rip? How can he not charge every wave that comes his way, knowing that legendary surf shooter Tom Servais is photographing every move he makes…